Has anyone on here created a low kick hammer from a stock hammer? I would like to do this to my gun, but im wondering if there is anything special to do or if its as simple as drilling and lightening the hammer.

All you really need is to drill holes in the stock bolt, but then you will need to find a stiffer drive spring, so it kind of defeates the purose.

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found on the a5 og

I have a very light hammer in one of my pro-e's

Depending on how "light" you make the hammer you WILL need a lighter valve spring so that the hammer can completely push the valve pin down.

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I've never really understood the real theory behind lightening the hammer because as cheese says you need a harder mainspring and that adds tension to the sear and still has to slam the valve open. The other side of the mod says to have a heavier hammer, allowing for a lighter main spring etc. (I've seen that with cockers). In any case, I tried to drill out a hole in my hammer the other day and the drill wasn't biting so I stopped before I scratched the hammer up much and caused friction issues.

I never thought it was really worth it. Just my .02 though..

Why? Just curious....

I have a 98 for what it is....A air hogging workhorse, that 9.5 / 10 will work when i pull it out of my box

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Image removed as it was too tall.

I dont really see the point either. Ive just seen and heard people talking about it lately and was wondering if it was something worth doing, but i dont really feel like doing that much work to my internals just for a milisecond faster hammer strike. my guns work fine the way they are. lol

lighter hammer + stiffer spring means faster cycling rate.

however, a lighter hammer combined with a softer valvespring means lower cycling pressure. But to make the marker function properly on the lower pressure you might have to mill bigger flutes and holes inside the valve to allow for a larger volume of air. Also a volumizer might be needed to counteract shootdown. Essentially you'll be making your own low pressure kit.

devlin; have you opened up a low pressure valve? I'm curious as to how much difference there is inside in terms of air flow passages. It always seemed that with cockers you had to increase air flow to get any kind of lower pressure operation regardless of the spring combos. For instance I did all manner of valve spring changes using a shocktech superfly bolt, but when I put in the lightning bolt from AKA, the airflow changed considerably enough to drop the operating pressure much much lower.
I guess in an electrogrip blowback the stiffer spring and lighter hammer might make for faster cycling, but I wonder how much more, if at all in a mech.

over at model98 there's a thread with pictures of a normal and low pressure valve comparison side by side done by macgyver.

here's the link: Model98.org Forums • View topic - Inside the LPK (low pressure kit)