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Air Systems CO2, HPA, Regulators, Remotes, etc.

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Old 07-11-2007, 02:10 PM
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A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

All of this was posted by me on another forum. There are still a few tweaks and errors in this.

Well, I have seen a good number of questions about this subject, so ill sum it up.

HPA stands for High Pressure Air. If you have no idea what the heck that means, it litterally means a high pressure airtank.

Now, HPA/Compressed Air Tanks/"Nitro Tanks" are all filled with compressed air, not CO2 or "stuff that can get you high" as that is a myth. Its filled with, air. What you're breathing right now unless you're a fish. HPA tanks are also called Nitrogen or "Nitro" tanks, because air is mostly nitrogen.

HPA tanks are not like CO2 tanks, they have two bottle pressures, 3000, and 4500 psi (pounds per square inch), and rarely 5000psi. HPA bottles also are not sized by just pressure, but cubic inches as well. They are commonly available in 47 ci, 68 ci (Most common), 72 ci, 88 ci, and 92 ci. There are other sizes as well, for example I have a 50 ci WGP tank.

HPA tanks also have two output pressures. Low, and high. If you have any Tippmann, Spyder, Brass Eagle, Viewloader, US-5 etc. you need a high output tank, unless you have a low pressure kit. Low Pressure guns run off of Low Pressure tanks, not CO2 like high pressure tanks. When a HPR or High pressure reg is used it brings
"down any tank output pressure (HP or LP) to the operating pressure of the gun. Very few "LP" guns run on straight tank pressure. For example, a DM4 may have an operating pressure of 200 psi, but the tank is outputting 850. The HPR (in this case, a Hyper2 if the DM is stock) will regulate that 850 down to 200. Most HPRs can handle HP input, but post iR3 Angels with stock HPRs need LP to work without any manipulation. Some of the Angel HPRs work ok with HP, but most will not allow the user to chrono under 300 fps or set their LPR correctly. Check the specs of the gun before you buy it and see what the operating pressure is. If it's say 225 (and it's not a stock A4/Fly/Speed/G7/A1) you can run either HP or LP." (the text within the quote goes to Hybrid Sniper on the Tippy forums) Some examples of low pressure guns are: Ions, Shockers, any DM or Proto, Angels etc. Basically, any high end speedball marker. There is not a MAJOR difference between LP and HP markers, but low pressure operation results in a quieter marker, more efficency, and better accuracy.

What is the advantage of HPA over CO2? HPA is much more regulated, resulting in more consistancy. What the heck is that? Your velocity and shots are more consistant, which makes it a heck of a lot more accurate. Also, your tank just runs out, your shots do not begin to drop down like when you're running out of CO2. The final (and my favorite) benefit of HPA is it is not affected by cold like CO2. Which means your shots are all good, and Response Triggers work well. For those of you with electronic markers, HPA is a must. CO2 will destroy a solenoid if rapid firing, and can destroy all regs execpt for a Palmers Stabilizer. Regular 98 Customs, X7's, and A5's with electronics all will be fine with CO2, but HPA is still reccomended. Also, liquid CO2 can eat O-Rings.

Finally, HPA tanks are made out of a couple different materals. The cheapest is aluminium which is heavy as heck, and fiber wrapped. Fiber wrapped is a thin aluminum shell that is well, fiber wrapped. Fiber wrapped tanks are the lightest tanks, and hold just as much and often more than aluminum tanks. There is also carbon fiber wrapped tanks, which are similar to regular fiber wrapped tanks.

The only downside to HPA tanks is they need to be Hydro-Tested every five years or so. Testing costs about $30 dollars, and if your tank fails, you're out of a tank. Most paintball shops will not fill an out of date tank.

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a message or just post below.
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:02 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

if you get a hpa system, how much do the tanks cost?
How much does the hpa and nitrogen cost?
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Old 02-27-2008, 08:47 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

the hpa tank costs like 160-170 im pretty sure
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Old 02-29-2008, 11:26 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

it rly can range from a used $15 steely to a $200 crossfire and such
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Old 03-08-2008, 11:21 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

You can find a 47/3k for $60 ish, but I would reccomend flipping the extra coin and get a larger tank.

Most places charge $1 for 1000 psi. So a 3000 psi tank=3 and 4500=4.50.
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Old 07-06-2008, 10:45 AM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

ok I have a 98c with both a response trigger and a cyclone feeder will an HPA tank work with both of these upgrades
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Old 06-11-2009, 09:34 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSOK
All of this was posted by me on another forum. There are still a few tweaks and errors in this.

Well, I have seen a good number of questions about this subject, so ill sum it up.

HPA stands for High Pressure Air. If you have no idea what the heck that means, it litterally means a high pressure airtank.

Now, HPA/Compressed Air Tanks/"Nitro Tanks" are all filled with compressed air, not CO2 or "stuff that can get you high" as that is a myth. Its filled with, air. What you're breathing right now unless you're a fish. HPA tanks are also called Nitrogen or "Nitro" tanks, because air is mostly nitrogen.

HPA tanks are not like CO2 tanks, they have two bottle pressures, 3000, and 4500 psi (pounds per square inch), and rarely 5000psi. HPA bottles also are not sized by just pressure, but cubic inches as well. They are commonly available in 47 ci, 68 ci (Most common), 72 ci, 88 ci, and 92 ci. There are other sizes as well, for example I have a 50 ci WGP tank.

HPA tanks also have two output pressures. Low, and high. If you have any Tippmann, Spyder, Brass Eagle, Viewloader, US-5 etc. you need a high output tank, unless you have a low pressure kit. Low Pressure guns run off of Low Pressure tanks, not CO2 like high pressure tanks. When a HPR or High pressure reg is used it brings
"down any tank output pressure (HP or LP) to the operating pressure of the gun. Very few "LP" guns run on straight tank pressure. For example, a DM4 may have an operating pressure of 200 psi, but the tank is outputting 850. The HPR (in this case, a Hyper2 if the DM is stock) will regulate that 850 down to 200. Most HPRs can handle HP input, but post iR3 Angels with stock HPRs need LP to work without any manipulation. Some of the Angel HPRs work ok with HP, but most will not allow the user to chrono under 300 fps or set their LPR correctly. Check the specs of the gun before you buy it and see what the operating pressure is. If it's say 225 (and it's not a stock A4/Fly/Speed/G7/A1) you can run either HP or LP." (the text within the quote goes to Hybrid Sniper on the Tippy forums) Some examples of low pressure guns are: Ions, Shockers, any DM or Proto, Angels etc. Basically, any high end speedball marker. There is not a MAJOR difference between LP and HP markers, but low pressure operation results in a quieter marker, more efficency, and better accuracy.

What is the advantage of HPA over CO2? HPA is much more regulated, resulting in more consistancy. What the heck is that? Your velocity and shots are more consistant, which makes it a heck of a lot more accurate. Also, your tank just runs out, your shots do not begin to drop down like when you're running out of CO2. The final (and my favorite) benefit of HPA is it is not affected by cold like CO2. Which means your shots are all good, and Response Triggers work well. For those of you with electronic markers, HPA is a must. CO2 will destroy a solenoid if rapid firing, and can destroy all regs execpt for a Palmers Stabilizer. Regular 98 Customs, X7's, and A5's with electronics all will be fine with CO2, but HPA is still reccomended. Also, liquid CO2 can eat O-Rings.

Finally, HPA tanks are made out of a couple different materals. The cheapest is aluminium which is heavy as heck, and fiber wrapped. Fiber wrapped is a thin aluminum shell that is well, fiber wrapped. Fiber wrapped tanks are the lightest tanks, and hold just as much and often more than aluminum tanks. There is also carbon fiber wrapped tanks, which are similar to regular fiber wrapped tanks.

The only downside to HPA tanks is they need to be Hydro-Tested every five years or so. Testing costs about $30 dollars, and if your tank fails, you're out of a tank. Most paintball shops will not fill an out of date tank.

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a message or just post below.

did anyone tried the Low Pressure kit to a whatever 98? i have a 98 custom platinum and the last upgrade i'll do is the low pressure kit with the tippmann regulator.

question is it worth upgrading? they say i will have greater accuracy since the compressed air will be regulated so my gun will not have "boost spike". (i recently changed to compressed air to save my o rings)

or...do not purchase the low pressure kit since the others say its kinda usless..
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:21 AM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

Ehhh...

Will it increase your markers performance? yes!
Is it anything that will make a substantial difference? No!

Dont get me wrong, it will make a difference. It will not make a world of a difference though. I would invest the money in a nice barrel kit before getting a LPK. A nice palmers regulator is a nice first step if you are concerned about consistancy(and already have HPA)
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Old 06-14-2009, 12:51 AM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

Quote:
Originally Posted by SSOK
Ehhh...

Will it increase your markers performance? yes!
Is it anything that will make a substantial difference? No!

Dont get me wrong, it will make a difference. It will not make a world of a difference though. I would invest the money in a nice barrel kit before getting a LPK. A nice palmers regulator is a nice first step if you are concerned about consistancy(and already have HPA)

so i'll be fine? since i use HPA?
if its still not right i was looking at this Tippmann regulator (since i want to use everything tippmann, too late for the barrel though, freakin smart parts tactical)

even if i do the LPK whats the difference? quieter? not that much kick? more shots per tank fill? if i shoot 50 balls will i hit the same spot not everywhere?

because if i do all that LPK and regulator i was thinking my gun might sound and shoot like a Dye DMs or any competion marker (not that i mind)

the shop says the best barrel out there is the Dye Ultralight barrel kit, but man its freaking 100 bucks...

sorry to ask you this newbie questions i just want to learn the truth to whoever tried the kit.
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Old 02-17-2010, 03:50 PM
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Re: A newbies guide to HPA/Nitro/Compressed air

this is what i want to know....i have the old school 98 custom(no A.C.T., pull sear, No RT screw)....can i run compressed air on my gun as it is? because back when i used to play all the time i was under the impression that you HAD to have the low pressure kit to run anything other than CO2...all i have on mine is a 32 degrees expansion chamber with a 20oz tank
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